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THE 



Alfred Scott System 



OF 



Actual Measure of Coat 1 Vest 



FIRST AND NEW EDITION 
OF CUTTING 



PUBLISHED BY 

PHILIP COLAVITA 

Richmond, Va. 
1906 






LffiHMRV «t (HMWRE38 

SEP 11 1906 

G 'O. 

/S//6& 

OOPYS 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the Year 1906. by 

PHILIP COLAVITA 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



IKirhmuni). Ba. 

Mosby & Reynolds, Printers 

1906 




Introduction 




HE AUTHOR feels in presenting this book to the Trade that he 
has accomplished the work of his life. A thorough examination 
of the text and illustrations of this book will convince the practical 
tailor that herein is overcome many if not all of the vexatious 
problems which have from time immemorial confronted the con- 
scientious workman in the cutting of garments. Many years 
experience as tailor, teacher, and business man, during which time he has 
made a close study of the art of cutting, has made him master of the situa- 
tion, and enables him to assert with confidence that by the system of 
ACTUAL MEASUREMENT alone can the tailor be successful in his calling; 
and the object of this book is to teach in the most simple manner how that 
object is to be attained, and when attained to free him from the many 
annoyances of complaints from his customers of misfits, etc., which too often 
involves 'the loss of much valuable time, and not even then giving the 
satisfaction desired. 





1 




ERRATA 




Page 16— In second line omit word "on." 




Page 28— In second line from bottom, read "on page 9" 




instead of ' 'in pace, etc. ' ' 



- " ■ » MH llMll Hl| ll «W^_ _ 

MBn»»'ntflOIWRE3S 

SEP 11 1906 
/S// 6>8 

' OOPY 8 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the Year 1906. by 

PHILIP COLAVITA 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 




Introduction 




HE AUTHOR feels in presenting this book to the Trade that he 
has accomplished the work of his life. A thorough examination 
of the text and illustrations of this book will convince the practical 
tailor that herein is overcome many if not all of the vexatious 
problems which have from time immemorial confronted the con- 
scientious workman in the cutting of garments. Many years 
experience as tailor, teacher, and business man, during which time he has 
made a close study of the art of cutting, has made him master of the situa- 
tion, and enables him to assert with confidence that by the system of 
ACTUAL MEASUREMENT alone can the tailor be successful in his calling; 
and the object of this book is to teach in the most simple manner how that 
object is to be attained, and when attained to free him from the many 
annoyances of complaints from his customers of misfits, etc., which too often 
involves the loss of much valuable time, and not even then giving the 



satisfaction desired. 



Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



Blank Measures for Coat and Vest 

Width of Back over the Coat Length to Seat 

Inside Sleeve Length Full Length 

Width of Back Across Top Full Breast (not used) . 

Front Balance First Waist 

Long Waist Balance Second Waist 

Back Balance Round Seat (very easy) . . 

B T F Breast 

Straight over Shoulder Front Strap 



Pitch of Back Short Waist Balance . . . 

Depth of Scye Back Strap 

Natural Waist Blade 

Fashionahle Waist Width of Scye 

Opening of Vest Front Length Side Length 

(Use same measures for Vest as for Coat.) 



The Measures 

Before removing the coat, measure the width of back, and the inside of the sbeve 
length. The measure for coat and vest are taken over the vest. Particular attention 
must be eexrcised in taking the measures, and let your customer stand in his natirei 
position and steady as possible. A. good fitting garment will be the result, but if the in 
easures are taken too loose or too tight, the result will be unsatisfactory either way. 

Figure 1 — Back View. — Figure how much for the shirt collar to be shown, say 
5 4 or 1/2 m °h to tast, and from that point measure down l ] /t inches for collar staut, 
make a cross at the center of the back as at Figure 1. Measure the same way at the 
side of the neck as at Figure 2. If the vest is too low around the neck, make cross and 
star mark on the shirt collar with pencil. Measure the width of the back across top 
from cross, as at Figure 1, to the side of the neck, as at Figure 2. This width is no 
less than 3 nor more than 4 inches to taste; this measure completes the star, as at Fig- 
ure 2. Place the short end of the square flat on the high part of the right side on 
shoulder bone as level as possible, and mark across for the pitch of back as at Figure 
1. Place the short arm of the square at depth of scye, and let the long end hang down 
aplumb, and mark at the front of the scye on left side, as at Figure 3, and in the same 
way on the back as at Figure 1. Mark the same way on front, and back at the right 
side. Connecting the chalk line from right to left with the edge of the square, as at 
Figure 1. This is for all back measures above the depth of scye. Connecting the chalk 
line from right to left by using the tape, and get it straight and level as possible, as at 
Figure 3. This is for all front measures above the depth of scye. .Measure from Hi" 
center oft he back seam on the breast line to the prominent part of the blade, ami mark 
it as at 5. (This is letter B — See Figure 1.) Measure from star, as at Figure 2, 
until you reach the plumb line (B), as at 5 on the back of the Figure 1, and mark on 
the shoulder, as at 3. (See Figure 2. This is letter T.) Mark the center of the front 
breast, as at Figure 3, and measure from that point until you reach a straight or 
plumb line 3, and mark, as at O. (This is letter F.) Measure for the straight over 
shoulder from 5, at the back of the Figure 1 through 3 of Figure 2 to < >. (Take this 
measure very easy.) Measure from cross to the pitch of back, depth of scye, natural 
waist, seat length, and full length. Measure full I. least, first waist, and mark there 
at cross, as at Figure 3. Cross is for long and short waist balances, as will be ex- 
plained presently. Measure second waist. Measure around seat very easy. Figure 
J- shows front balance measure from star to the center of the breast at the breast line. 




Fig. 1 



Fig. 2 






Fig. 3 



Fig. 4 



Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



The Measures 



Figure 5 shows back balance measure from star to the center of the back at the 
breast line. Figure (i shows the position of the measuring-square under the arm, 
and the front strap measure to the star. Use the same tape for the center of the 
breast-measure, and down to cross for the short waist balance. Figure 7 shows that 
the measuring-square is in the same position for the back strap measure to star. For 
the blade measure, use the brass strip to the center of the back, and do not force it 
either way. Figuse X shows the long waist balance measure with the tape from star 
to cross, and the short waist with tape of the measuring-square down to the same 
point. Remove the measuring-square, and note the measure for the width of scye on 
measuring-square. 

Use short and long waist balances only for corpulent, or high-chest. Hat-stomach. 
The measures for overcoat are taken over the coat in the same way. 





Fie 5 



FiG. 6 




Fig. 7 



Fig. 8 



Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



The Measuring Square 



DIAGRAM AA. 

First note that the back slide is fixed for the width of scye. Place the measur- 
ing square in front of the line squared up and down for the front of scye rest on the 
breast line (or depth of scye) , and hold it in position for the sweep. With the front tape 
sweep front strap, front breast and short waist balance. With the back tape sweep back 
strap, as showing itself in this diagram. 



SKETCH AB, AC and AD. 



Sketch AB represents the collar prepared on pressboard for stretching. Sketch 
AC— hold at the back center seam firmly with the left hand, and with right catch under 
the arm scye and pull it forward until the fullness disappears; of course use iron for such 
process. This is for the left side of the gorge as represented in this sketch, and for the 
right side hold at the back center seam firmly with right hand, and with left catch under 
the arm scye and pull it forward until the fullness disappears- This process is done the 
same way on coat prepared for try on, and when it is finished it will look the same as 
Sketch AD, with collar standing up effect. 







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Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



To Draft the Construction Lines 



DIAGRAM 1. 



Width of back 8 

Inside sleeve length 18 

Width of back across top 3% 

Pitch of back 4 

Depth of seye 9% 

Plus % inch, 9y 8 inches in all. 

Natural waist 17 

Fashionable waist 19 

Length to seat. 26 

Full length 30 

Breast • • 7 

Short waist balance 9 1 /* 

Front strap 8% 

Back strap 9^ 

Plus % inch, 10 inches in all. 
Blade 10y 2 



Width of scye 4 

Back balance 10 

Plus % inch, 10% inches in all. 

B, 2% inches ; T, 2% inches 

F, 4 inches 

Straight over shoulder, 17 inches. . . 

Plus % inch, 17% inches in all. 

Front balance 9% 

Long waist balance 16 

Full breast 37 

First waist 33 

Second waist 35 

Not used for loose coat. 
Round seat 38 

Plus 4 inches, 42 inches in all. 



Square lines A N and AG. A to B is pitch of back. A to C is depth of scye. 
A to D is natural waist. A to E is fashionable waist. A to F is length to seat. A to 
G is full length. Square lines B C F and G. C to 1 is 1% inches. Square down by 
llie breast line to locate 2. This is the amount for make-up. From 1 to 3 is the blade, 
and square up and down. Apply measuring square at 3 by the breast line, rest on C. 
( See Diagram A A. ) 

Note. — The back slide must be fixed at 4 inches width of scye, and hold it firmly 
on till you have marked at 4 (breast), with tape attached at measuring square, and 
with same sweep for the short waist balance. Sweep front strap. Sweep back strap 
with tape measure attached at back slide of the measuring square. (Remove the 
measuring square.) Apply back balance 14 inch in front at C and sweep. This 
will locate 7. From B to 9 is the width of back, and square down from 9 to locate 11. 
9 to 10 is % inch. 11 to 12 is 1% inches to taste or style. 11 to 13 is 1 inch. Square 
down 13 by line C, this will locate 14. Apply front balance at 4 and sweep. This will 
locate 5. Apply long waist balance at 5 and sweep. This will locate 6. Square down 
from 5 by line X. 5 to M is 3 inches, and square out from M by 5. From 14 of an 
inch in front at C to H is (B). From 7 to J is (T). From 5 to K is the same, and sweep 
pivot at 5. From 4 to L is (F). Apply straight over shoulder from H to J and from 
L to K. Draw a line from 5 through K to establish 16. Square up and down to lo- 
cate P and 25. 4 to 17 is 1% inches, and 6 to 18 is the same. Draw a line through 17 
and 18. Apply seat measure from to 2 and from P to Q. Draw a line from 11 
through Q. This will locate 24. Sweep from 14 to 24 pivot at 13. Measure from 5 
to 24, plus !/> inch to 25. Draw a straight line from 25 to 24. This will complete the 
construction lines. 

The application of the short and long waist balances, as at 6, or wherever it may 
be, will explain itself, Diagram 11. In this case the 2 waist are C to D and 4 to 6, the 
same distances. 



N 



17. 



18 




^C 



$^^- K 



f6 



M 




21 




DIAGRAM 1 



12 Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



Single- Breasted Sack 



DIAGRAM 2. 

This draft represents Diagram 1 finished. But to assist in learning the system, the explanations 
are repeated. 

Width of back S. Width of scye I . 

Inside sleeve length IS. Back balance 10. 

Width of back across top 3%. Plus % inch, 10% inches in all. 

Pitch of back i- B, 3% inches; T, 2% inches 

Depth of scye 9 Vs ■ F. 4 inches 

Plus % inch. 9% inches in all. Straight over shoulder 17. 

Natural waist 17. Plus % inch, 17% inches in all. 

Fashionable waist 19 Front balance 9 %. 

Length to seat 26. Long waist balance lfi. 

Full length 30. Full breast 37. 

Breast 7. First waist 33. 

Short waist balance 9V2. Second waist 35. 

Front strap 8 %. Not used for loose coat. 

Pack strap 9 Vt ■ Round seat 3S. 

Plus % inch. 10 inches in all. Plus 4 inches. 42 inches in all. 

Blade 10%. 

Square lines A X and A. G. A to B is 4 inches pitch of back. A to C is 9 Vz inches, plus % inch, 
which is 9% inches in all; depth of scye A to D is 17 natural waist. A to E is 19 fashionable waist. 
A to F is 26 length to seat. A to G is 30 full length. Square lines, B C F and G. C to 1 is 1 % inches, and 
square down by the breast line to locate 2. This is the amount for make-up. From 1 to 3 is 10% inches 
blade, and square up and down. Apply measuring square at 3 by the breast line rest on C. 

NOTE. — The back slide must be fixed at 4 inches width of scye. and hold it firmly on till you 
have marked at 4, which is 7 inches breast with tape attached at measuring square, and with same 
sweep for the short waist balance 9% inches, as at 6, as represented in 

DIAGRAM I. — Sweep front strap, which is 8 % inches. Sweep back strap, which is 10 inches in 
all, with tape measure attached at back slide of the measuring square. (Remove the measuring square. ) 
Apply back balance Vi inch in front at C, which is 10% inches in all, and sweep. This will locate 7. 

From 7 to 8 is width of back across top 3 % inches, plus % inch always. This width is located 
from the center seam to the shoulder point to taste or size no less than 3, no more than 4 inches for all 
sizes. From B to 9 is the width of back, 8 inches, and square down from 9 to locate 11. 9 to 10 is % 
inch. 11 to 12 is 1% inches, to taste or style. 11 to 13 is 1 inch. Square down 13 by line C. This will 
locate 14. Shape the back as represented. Apply front balance at 4. which is 9 % inches, and sweep. 
This will locate 5, as per Diagram 1. Apply long waist balance at 5, which is 16 inches, and sweep. 
This will locate 6, as per Diagram 1. Square down from 5 by line X. From 5 to M is 3 inches, and 
square out from M by 5. From Vi inch in front at C is 2 % inches (B) from 7 to J is 2 y 2 inches (T). 
and from 5 to K is the same. From 4 to L is 4 inches (F). Apply straight over shoulder from H to 
J and from L to K, plus % inch. 17% inches in all. Draw a line from 5 through K to establish 16. 
Square down 4 by the breast line to locate P and 25. 4 to 17 is 1% inches, and 6 to 18 is the same. Draw 
a line through 17 and 18. From N to 26 is % inch. Apply seat measure from O to 2, and from P to 
Q, 2 inches addition to half of seat, which is 21 inches in all (seat is 42 inches). Draw a line from 11 
through Q. This will locate 24. Apply second waist from 19 to 20, and from 21 to 22 to taste or style. 
Shape side seam from 11 through 22. Shape shoulder from 15 through K as represented. 7 to 10 and 
5 to 15 is the same. Sweep from 14 to 24 pivot at 13. Measure from 5 to 24, plus % inch to 25. Draw 
a straight line 25 to 24. Shape as represented. 

The first and second waist lines D and E in this case are C to D. and 4 to 6 is the same. D to E, 
and 6 to 21 is the same as Diagram 1. 

THE COLLAR. 

From 26 to star, according to taste or style. Draw a line % inch back of breast line at star, and 
extend it 1% inches in front at 5 to locate 29. 29 to 31 is 1 '4 inches, and 28 to 30 is the same. Finish as 
represented to taste or style. 

THE POCKET. 

From 3 to U is two-thirds of the sleeve length. Make one-third of the width of the pocket in front 
of U, and two-thirds back, and to run with the bottom. 




DIAGRAM 2 



i4 



Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



Three- Button Cutaway 



DIAGRAM 3. 

The measures used for this draft are the same as Single Breasted Sack. Diagram 
2, with the exception of the following changes: The addition to the seat measure is 
iy-2 inches instead of 4 inches, and all the other points are drafted the same. Square 
down 9 to locate 11. From 9 to 12 is 3 inches to taste or style. From 12 to 2 is % 
inch. From D to E is V_. inch. Square down from E to locate P. From E to 8 is 
2% inches to taste or style. Square up and down from 8 to locate 3 and 33. Shape 
back as represented. From E to star is 1% inches for make-up. Apply waist meas- 
ure 8 to star and 6 to a cross on natural waist line. Measure the distance from a cross 
to 8, whatever the distance may be. In this case it is l 1 /. inches. Take one-half of 
this amount between 7 and 8. From 7 to 5 is 5 inches to taste or style. From 5 to 
(J is the same as from 7 to 8. Square up from half way between and 5 to locate 17. 
Shape side seam of side-body and fore-part, dropping % inch below fashionable waist 
line and shape back seam of side-body as represented, reducing % inch at breast line. 
Measure from 12 to 1 side-seam of back. 2 to 4- is the same, plus % inch. The length 
of fore-part is 3 inches below fashionable waist line always as at line 6 and H. 

TO DRAFT SKIRT. 

Apply seat measure from U to'star, and from H to X, plus % inch. Shape as 
represented from 4 through X to L. From 4 to L is % inch more than 1 to 3. Meas- 
ure from shoulder point to L. Apply same to Y. Draw a line from Y to L. Shape 
top of skirt from 4, rounding slightly over the hi)) to waist seam of fore-part at two- 
thirds of the distance from 10 to 4. Finish as represented. 




DIAGRAM 3 



1 6 Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



Double-Breasted Frock 



DIAGRAM 4. 

The measures used for this draft are the same as Single Breasted Sack, Diagram 
2, and the draft is the same as Three Button on Cutaway, Diagram 3, with exception 
of the following changes: 

Square up and down from 4 by the breast line to locate 6 and 25. From 6 to 18 is 
l 1 /) inches. Square up and down from 18 to locate 7 and 2. From 7 to 8 is 214 
inches. 11 is 14 inch in front line 2 and 7. From 11 to 3 is 3% inches. Draw a 
straight line from 8 through 3 to D. X in this case is 8% inches (from 8). 5 to 10 is 
D/4 inch. Draw a line from 10, % inch back of front edge at X to locate 28. From 
28 to is 2 1 /) inches in this case, to taste or style. is % inch below line N and M. 
Shape gorge from 5 through 28 to ( >. 9 is the same distance from line 2 as is from 
line 2. 9 to D is 714 inches. 9 to B is 3 inches. Shape lapel to taste or style as rep- 
resented. 25 to 26 is the same distance as from J to 8. Finish as represented to 
taste or style. 



1 8 Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



The Dress Coat 



DIAGRAM 5. 

The measures used for this draft are the same as Diagram 2, and the draft is the 
same as Diagram 3, with exception of the following changes : 

The addition to the seat measure is 2y 2 inches instead of iy 2 inches. Square 
down from front of scye to locate P. From P to H is iy 2 inches, and square down 
to locate 12. From 4 to 1 is iy 2 inches. From (i to 18 is % inches. Draw a 
straight line the full length of the fore-part through 18 to 1. From 5 to M is 
3 inches. Square out from M by 5 to locate N line. 9 and is % inches below N 
M. 13 is 2 1 /> inches from J. 14 is 1% inches from 13. 12 to R is the same. Apply 
seat measure from 15 to a star, and 16 to 17, plus iy 4 inches. From 19 to 20 is (> 
inches, to taste or style. Draw a line from 12 to 20. Shape skirt as represented. 
Square down from 2 by M to locate 7. 7 to 8 is 1% inches. 11 is % inch from line 
2, 7, and 9 is y 2 inch from line 2, 7. From 11 to 3 is '2y± inches. Draw i\ line from 
8 through 3 to locate D. From 9 to D is 3 inches to taste or style. From 9 to B is 
2 1 / t inches to taste or style. Shape front and lapel as represented, to taste or style. 




DIAGRAM 5 



20 Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



The Tuxedo 



DIAGRAM 6. 
From 20 to 21 is 2y 2 inches, and square out from 21 ; this will locate 17. 20 to 19 is 
114 inches. 18 is to taste or style. 12 to 18 in this case is V/ s inches. Draw a line from 
19 to 18 ; this will locate 16 and 14. 16 to 17 is 1% inches, to taste or style. Drop from 
17 to 15 to taste, in this case is 1% inches. 14 to 13 is 2y 2 inches to taste or style. The 
leaf of the collar is iy 2 inches. Finish as represented. 




DIAGRAM 6 



22 Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



The Sleeve 



DIAGRAM 7. 
To Draft. 

Measure the armhole (scye), which is in this ease 17 inches. Place the forearm 
notch 14 inch above the breast line always, and the notch on back pitch, which is in this 
case iy 2 inches below 10 to taste or style, as shown in Diagram 6. Measure from 
the back notch down to breast line, which in this case is D/o inches depth of scye. 
Measure the under-arm from the fore-arm notch to the back notch, which is in this 
case 8 inches. (This is for the under sleeve.) Measure from the back notch to the 
back shoulder-seam, place this amount to the fore-arm notch, and continue to the 
shoulder point of the fore-part. (This is for the top sleeve.) In this case it is 9 
inches. Inside length 18 inches. 

Square lines A C and A B. A to D is 4y 2 inches depth of scye. Square out D 
by line A. A to C is one-half of scye 8y 2 inches. 2 is half way between A and C. 
2 to 3 is % inch. Measure from 3 to H. Apply same 14 hich inside at E back to X, 
and sweep from E to 3 pivot at X. E to F is : J4 inch. From F to is l 1 /. inches. 
From to N is 4 inches width of scye. Place the fore-arm notch of the pattern with 
breast line rest on line E and D. Trace the under sleeve from 2 to 3 inches back 
from E by the fore-part pattern. (See Diagram 6.) Remove the fore-part pattern. 

Measure the under sleeve following the trace mark by the fore-part through N, 
plus 1 inch, to whatever may touch line A as at 11; in this case it is 9 inches in all. 
Draw a straight line from 11 to N, shape as represented. Shape top sleeve from A 
through 3, reducing y 4 mc h where sweep cross line A. Shape as represented. Meas- 
ure top sleeve from E round through 3 to A, which in this case is 9 inches for top 
sleeve, plus iy 2 inches, 10y 2 inches in all. From E to L is the full length, 18 inches. 
L to 12 is IV2 inches always. 20 is half way between E and L, square back from 20, 
L and 12. From L to 5 is % inch. From L to 6 is iy 2 inches. From 5 to 7 is 7 inches 
to taste or style. From 20 to 9 is % inch. From 8 to M is 1 inch. Shape as rep- 
resented. 

This sleeve contains 2y 2 inches fullness in all, 1 inch to be used from E to 11, 
and 1% inches from E to A. The top sleeve can be reduced to taste or style, as 
shown by the dotted line, according to the scye, more or less. Finish as represented. 




DIAGRAM 7 



24 Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



Double-Breasted Sack 



DIAGRAM 8. 

The measures by which this draft was produced are the same as Diagram 2, with 
-the exception of the following changes : From 4 to 17 is 4 inches, and from 6 to 18 and 
25 to D is the same. This amount is for 6 inches button stand. Shape the bottom, 
lapel, and front as represented to taste or style. 




DIAGRAM 8 



26 



Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



The Chesterfield Overcoat 



DIAGRAM 9. 

This overcoat is moderately full. The measures by which this draft was pro- 
duced are as follows : 



Width of back 8 

Iuside sleeve length 161,4 

Width of back across top 3% 

Pitch of back 4 

Depth of scye 10V 2 

Natural waist 18 

Fashionable waist 20 yo 

Length to seat 27 

Full length 40 

Breast 7% 

Front strap 9% 

Back strap 10% 



Blade 11% 

Width of scye 4% 

Back balance 1 1% 

B, 4% inches ; T, 3y 2 inches 

F, 514 inches 

Straight over shoulder 19 

Front balance 11% 

Full breast 41 

First waist 41 

Round seat 45 j ._. 

Plus 6 inches, 5iy 2 inches in all. 



The measures for overcoat are taken over the coat, and the addition to the back 
balance, back strap and depth of scye are the same as Diagram 2. The addition to 
the straight over-shoulder is from % inch to 114 inch, according to the weight of the 
goods. 

Square down from 4 by the breast line to locate 6. 4 to 3 is 6 inches, and 6 to 
18 is the same. Square up and down. Shape lapel to taste or style. 7 is % inch 
above the breast line. 8 is 1% above breast line. Shape back scye through 8 to 9. 
The dotted line shows full box overcoat. From 9 to 10 is 1% inches. The width of 
the back at seat line is 1 inch more than from 9 to back seam at breast line. Finish 
as represented. 



Short and long waist balance measures are not uccd for louse overcoat. 




DIAGRAM 9 



28 Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 

Difference of Back and Shoulder Formations 
from the Breast Line Up 



DIAGRAM 10. 

The center draft represents Diagram 2. The draft mark with was produced 
by the following measures : 

B, 2i/ t inches Breast 8% 

T, 3 inches Front strap 9% 

F, 6 inches Front balance 9% 

Back strap 9%, Width of back across top 2% 

Plus % inch, lOVo inches in all. Plus % inch, 3y s inches in all. 

Blade 9% Straight over shoulder 17 1 /! 

Back balance 10 Plus % inch, 18 inches in all. 

•Plus % inch, 10% inches in all. 

The draft marked with 8 was produced by the following measures ; 

B, 3% inches Breast 6 

T, 4 inches Front strap 9% 

F, 2% inches Front balance 9 

Back strap 10 Width of back across top 4 

Plus % inch, 10% inches in all. Plus % inch, 4% inches in all. 

Blade 11 Straight over shoulder 17% 

Back balance 12 Plus % inch, 18 1 /-, inches in all. 

This diagram is simply to illustrate the different formations of shoulder from the 
breast-line up. No matter where the measures bring about the front and back should- 
er point, if careful measures are taken, a perfectly balanced garment will be the re- 
sult. For a long time, and from all sources proper attention has not been paid to the 
measurement of back shoulder point and the front of scye as to locating in proper 
places and applied as taken, which is the most essential and the only thoroughly bal- 
anced point of coat, and not a division of breast system. It may appear to some that 
there are too many measures in this system, but if it is given a fair trial, and the in- 
structions strictly observed for making up the shoulder and collar, as in pace, etc., 
the intelligent tailor and cutter will be convinced of its advantages. 




DIAGRAM 10 



30 Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



Difference of Waist Balances and Waist 

Circumference 



DIAGRAM 11. 

The solid line represents Diagram 2, with following exceptions, to produce the 
draft represented by the dotted lines: First, use natural waist line squared by line 
A X and A G, always for base as the solid line in this Diagram. The measures are as 
follows : 

Long waist balance 14, plus 14 inch, always 14*4 inches in all. Short waist bal- 
ance 8 'A, and square down by the base line for the application of the seat measure. Of 
course, the two sweep of long and short waist balances locate 6, as Diagram 1 and 2. 
Second waist 33. Seat 36, plus 4 inches, 40 inches in all. Of course, use one-half of 
the seat to draft, which is 20 inches in this case. 

The draft represented by the broken lines are obtained in the same way, and the 
measures are as follows : 

Long waist balance liy^, plus ^4 inch, 17% inches in all. 

Short waist balance 12. 

Second waist 40. 

Seat 42, plus 4 inches, 46 in all. Of course, use 23 inches as one-half of the seat 
measure. 

But the short and long waist balances can be omitted for normal form or loose 
coat. By square out the two waist lines D and E, as in Diagrams 1 and 2. This will 
locate (i and 21. 




DIAGRAM 11 



32 Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



The Vest 



DIAGRAM 12. 

The measures used for this draft are as follows : 

Width of back 8 Blade 10% 

Width of back across top 3% Width of scye 4 

Depth of scye 9V 2 Back balance 10 

Plus % inch, 9% inches in all. Plus : V 4 inch, 10% inches in all. 

Natural waist 17 B, 2% inches ; T, 2y 2 inches 

Front length 26 F, 4 inches 

Side length 23 (Straight over shoulder, 17 inches. . . 

Breast 7 Plus % inch, 17 :{ /4 inches in all. 

Front strap 8% Front balance 914 

Back strap 9V 4 Full breast 37 

Plus % inch, 10 inches in all. Waist 33 

Long and short waist balance can be ap plied the same as Diagram 2. Use same 
measure for vest as coat. 

To Draft. 

Square line A E and AX. A to B is 2 inches always. A to C is depth of scye 
91/0, plus % inch, 9y 8 inches in all. A to D is natural waist, 17 inches. Square lines 
B C and D. B to 9 is the width of back, 8 inches. C to 1 is 1% inches for make-up. 
From 1 to 3 is the blade, lOy. inches. Square up from 3. Apply measure square at 
3 by the breast line, rest on C. 

Note. — That the back slide is fixed at 4 inches width of scye, and is to be held 
firmly on till you have marked at 4, which is 7 inches breast, with tape attached at 
measure square, and with same sweep front strap, which is 8% inches. Sweep back 
strap 914 inches, plus % inch, 10 inches in all, with tape attached at back slide of the 
measure square. 

Remove the Measure Square. — Apply back balance V4 inch in front at C, which 
is 10 inches plus %, 10% inches in all, and sweep; this will locate 7. From 7 to 8 
is the width of back across top 3V) inches plus % inch always. From B to !) is the 
width of back, 8 inches. Sweep front balance 9V4 inches pivot at 4. This will locate 
5. From 4 to 17 is Vj inch. Square up and down from 17. Draw a line from !) to 
7. 7 to 13 is the width of shoulder-seam, to taste or style, which in this case is 4 
inches. C to H is B, 2% inches. 7 to J is T, 2y 2 inches, and 5 to K is the same, sweep 
pivot at 5. From 4 to L is F, 4 inches. Apply straight over shoulder 17 inches from 
Ii to J, and from L to K plus % inch, 17% inches in all. Draw a line from 5 through 
K. 5 to F is the same as 7 to 13. 5 to () is ly 4 inches. N is half way between D and 2, 
and square up from N. This will locate U. Apply one-half of waist measure Hi 1 /, 
inches from 2 to star plus 2 inches, 18V 2 inches in all. Measure the distance from star 
to D, which in this case is 2 inches. Take out half of that amount, 1 inch, as from T 
to 18 at N, and two-thirds of the remaining half which is to be used from 1) 1!), and 
the remaining one-third to be used from 2 to (>. From 8 to P and from 5 to ID is the 
length, 26" inches, plus 1 inch. 8 to P is the side length, 23 inches, plus % inch. 
Square back from 10 to locate 11. Shape as represented to taste or style. 




io~n 



DIAGRAM 12 



34 Alfred Scott System of Actual Measure of Coat and Vest 



Remarks 



BUTTON-STAND. 

The problem of setting the button on finished garment to any distance desired 
from the finished edge has puzzled many tailors and cutters. In many cases the but- 
tons are sewed on by a chance. 

This method will prove satisfactory if the garment is well balanced. Any amount 
desired for button stand to double or single breasted coats are as follows: 4 at the 
breast line, as in Diagram 2, plus 1 inch forward from 4 for finished edges, and from 
that point the two edges will overlap double. If we add 1 inch more than finished 
edges, twice 1 is 2 inches. Twice l 1 /. is 3 inches. Twice 2 is 4 inches, and twice 4 
is 8 inches, and so on. 

SHOULDER AND COLLAR. 

First. Do not stretch or shrink shoulder to any coat. 
Second. The gorge are cut very short. 

Third. The collar to be put about % inch fullness on each side of the gorge; start 
the fullness about V- 2 inch from center of the back seam to about 1 inch from the break 
of the lapel. To give the stand-up effect is the thing of to-day. 

Fourth. Work a very good breast in the coat of all sizes. This will give a very 
good result. 

Fifth. Draw in front of the arm seye. 

Sixth. Never move the back from the breast line. 

Seventh. Straightening the incline of the back with iron by bringing the fullness 
toward the blade and let it appear if the seam is cut straight. 

(See Sketch AB, AC, and AD.) 



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